The Tamar class in brief
The Tamar is one of the RNLI’s modern all-weather lifeboats. It entered service in the mid-2000s and is designed to operate either from a mooring or down a slipway from a boathouse. A few points shape the model:
- Size. The full-size boat is about 16.3 m long, so a 1:16 model comes out at roughly a metre. See how long a Tamar class lifeboat is for model lengths at other scales.
- Slipway launching. Because many Tamars launch down slipways, the hull is shaped to protect the running gear. The propellers sit partly in tunnels in the hull bottom, and a good model reproduces these.
- A daughter boat. Like the larger Severn, the Tamar carries a small Y-class inflatable. On a model it’s a worthwhile detail, and some builders make it removable.
- A busy, modern superstructure with an enclosed wheelhouse, an upper steering position, mast, radar and plenty of deck fittings.
Tamar model kits on the market
Ranges change, so check current listings before you buy. The kits most often discussed are both 1:16.
Mountfleet Models 1:16
Mountfleet’s Tamar kit is listed by retailers at 1:16, with finished dimensions of about 1000 x 320 mm. It’s built mainly from laser-cut wood, with metal, plastic and textile parts. It comes with a full-size construction drawing and building instructions.
This kit suits builders who like traditional, wood-based construction. Expect to seal and glass or otherwise waterproof the hull carefully before it goes on the water. Our guide to waterproofing a wooden model boat hull covers epoxy and glass cloth.
Model Slipway 1:16
Model Slipway is a UK kit maker whose range includes lifeboats and service craft, and it has offered a 1:16 RNLI Tamar kit. Kits of this kind usually centre on a moulded hull with a separate superstructure and fittings package. Check the current listing for exactly what’s supplied.
Smaller scales and static options
If a metre-long working model is too big, look at:
- Static plastic lifeboat kits at small scales, if a Tamar is currently offered (availability varies)
- Scratch-building a smaller Tamar from plans, using a larger kit’s dimensions as a guide
- Building one of the other classes in this cluster that’s available at a size you prefer
Wood or GRP: which kit format suits you?
| Wood-based kit | GRP (glassfibre) hull kit | |
|---|---|---|
| Hull shape | You build it from frames and sheet or planking | Supplied moulded, shape fixed by the mould |
| Skill needed | Higher. Fairing and sealing take patience | Lower for the hull, though detail work is similar |
| Waterproofing | Needs careful sealing, often resin and glass cloth | Hull is inherently waterproof |
| Build time | Longer | Usually shorter to get a floating hull |
| Satisfaction | Many builders enjoy the woodwork itself | Lets you spend your time on detail and fit-out |
Neither is “better”. The choice depends on how you like to build. For more on wooden kits in general, see the best wooden model boat kits for adults.
What you’ll need beyond the box
Most Tamar kits are sold without the working parts. Budget for:
- Two motors, propeller shafts, couplings and propellers (unless included)
- One or two speed controllers, or a dual controller with mixing (see choosing a brushed or brushless ESC)
- A radio set (two channels minimum, more for lights and sound)
- Batteries and a suitable charger
- Ballast (usually lead)
- Paint, primer, glue, filler and finishing materials
- Optional extras: LED lighting, a sound unit, a bow thruster, a crew of scale figures
The working parts can add a large share of the kit price again, especially if you choose brushless motors and a sound unit. Our article on what a Tamar class lifeboat costs looks at both the full-size boat and the model.
Build tips for a Tamar
Hull and propeller tunnels
- Mark the waterline and centreline early. Everything else is measured from them.
- Take care with the propeller tunnels. The propellers need even clearance all round, and the shafts must be accurately aligned. See how to fit and seal a stern tube and prop shaft.
- Fit shafts, motor mounts and rudders before closing in the deck, and test-run the motors before you seal anything.
Superstructure and the fly bridge
- Dry-fit the superstructure to the hull often. Small errors in deck camber or sheer show up as gaps along the wheelhouse.
- Make the superstructure removable, with a good seal, so you can reach the batteries and electronics.
- Glazing goes in last, after painting, to avoid fogging it with glue or overspray.
Fittings, Y-boat and detail
- Build fittings in batches: all the cleats together, all the vents together. It keeps them consistent.
- Treat the Y-boat as a small model in its own right. Neat painting here lifts the whole model.
Ballast and trim
Fit motors, batteries and radio before you add ballast. Then float the model in a bath and add weight until it sits on the waterline, level fore and aft. A 1:16 Tamar’s theoretical scale weight is several kilograms, so expect to add a fair amount of ballast. Keep it low. Our guide to ballasting an RC model boat to its waterline goes into more detail.
Painting and markings
The Tamar wears the familiar RNLI scheme: a dark blue hull with orange upper works, plus white and black detail and the boat’s operational number on the bow. Tamar operational numbers start with 16. Decide early which individual boat and station you’re modelling, because fittings and markings vary between boats. See painting a model in accurate RNLI livery.
Is a Tamar a good first lifeboat model?
A Tamar is a big, detailed project rather than a starter kit, but it isn’t out of reach for a patient builder with some prior experience. If this would be your first boat of any kind, a smaller or simpler model will teach you the basics first, such as sealing, painting and installing running gear. For a broader comparison of classes, see our guide to radio controlled lifeboat models.