How scale works on ship kits
A scale such as 1/350 means one unit on the model equals 350 of the same units on the real ship. To estimate how long a finished model will be, divide the real ship’s length by the scale number. This matters more for ships than for almost any other modeling subject, because real vessels range from a 24 m torpedo boat to a carrier over 330 m long. The same scale that gives you a manageable battleship turns a PT boat into something the size of a finger.
Model length at common scales
The figures below are rounded approximations based on commonly quoted overall lengths.
| Ship | Real length | 1/35 | 1/72 | 1/200 | 1/350 | 1/700 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Elco 80 ft PT boat | ~24.4 m | ~70 cm | ~34 cm | ~12 cm | ~7 cm | ~3.5 cm |
| Type VIIC U-boat | ~67 m | ~1.9 m | ~93 cm | ~34 cm | ~19 cm | ~10 cm |
| Fletcher-class destroyer | ~115 m | — | ~1.6 m | ~57 cm | ~33 cm | ~16 cm |
| Bismarck | ~251 m | — | — | ~1.25 m | ~72 cm | ~36 cm |
| Nimitz-class carrier | ~333 m | — | — | ~1.67 m | ~95 cm | ~48 cm |
A dash means no realistic kit exists at that scale, or the model would be too large for most homes.
The main plastic ship kit scales
1/35: small craft at armor scale
1/35 is the standard scale for military vehicles and figures, so ship kits here cover small boats that pair well with tank and figure modeling. Italeri has been the main source, with Elco PT boats and German Schnellboote among its subjects, along with landing craft such as the LCVP. Even small craft get large at this scale: Italeri’s S-38 Schnellboot is close to a metre long. Our 1/35 Schnellboot build guide covers what that means in practice.
1/72: submarines, PT boats and coastal craft
If you’ve searched for 1/72 scale ships and boats, you’ll have noticed that the range is mostly small vessels. 1/72 is the classic aircraft scale, and Revell in particular has used it for U-boats, PT boats, Schnellboote and a Flower-class corvette. These kits are big enough to show deck detail and crew-scale fittings without taking over a room, and some builders convert them to radio control. A 1/72 Type IX U-boat is still over a metre long, so check the length before you buy. Our guides to PT boat model kits and U-boat model kits go into the specific options.
1/144 and 1/200: big hulls, few subjects
1/144 shows up mostly for submarines and some small warships. 1/200 is where the very large showpiece kits live. Trumpeter has released 1/200 battleships and liners, including Bismarck, Yamato and Titanic, that come out well over a metre long. These are impressive but expensive, and they need a dedicated display space.
1/350: the main large-ship scale
1/350 is the most popular scale for detailed models of destroyers, cruisers, battleships and carriers. It’s large enough to show deck fittings, light weapons and rigging, and most capital ships still fit on a shelf at 60–100 cm. Tamiya, Trumpeter, Revell, Hasegawa and Academy have all made 1/350 ships, and the aftermarket for photo-etch, brass barrels and wooden decks is bigger at this scale than at any other.
For specific subjects, see our comparisons of 1/350 Bismarck kits and 1/350 aircraft carrier kits.
Trumpeter’s 1/350 range
Trumpeter scale model ships at 1/350 make up one of the widest catalogues in the hobby. The Chinese maker has covered WWII battleships and cruisers, a long run of US carriers including the Nimitz class, and many modern warships that other companies haven’t touched, including Chinese and Russian vessels. Common traits reported across the range:
- Large parts counts, often with some photo-etch and sometimes a display stand included.
- Competitive prices for the size, which makes Trumpeter a frequent choice for a first big ship.
- Variable accuracy, depending on the release. Some kits are well regarded; others draw criticism in reviews for shape or detail errors that aftermarket sets are designed to fix.
- Strong aftermarket support, since many detail-set makers target popular Trumpeter kits.
Because quality varies between older and newer Trumpeter releases, read a review of the exact kit and check its tooling date on a database such as Scalemates before you buy.
1/400 and 1/600
These are mostly older or regional scales. Heller in France has used 1/400 for warships and liners, including the Normandie. Airfix’s long-running 1/600 warship range has introduced many British modelers to ships. These kits are often simpler and less detailed than modern 1/350 or 1/700 releases, but they can be good value and build into tidy models. See our page on ocean liner model kits for liners in these scales.
1/700: fleets on a shelf
At 1/700 a battleship is roughly 35 cm long and a destroyer about the length of a pencil. This scale is built around waterline kits, so collectors can line up entire task forces in a cabinet. Japanese makers established it through the Water Line Series, and newer brands push detail further. Our 1/700 waterline kit guide covers Tamiya, Aoshima, Flyhawk and others.
1/1250: collector miniatures
1/1250 is a long-established collector scale, mostly for small metal or resin models that come finished or need little assembly. A large warship is around 20 cm long. Makers like Mountford serve this market. See Mountford 1/1250 waterline ships.
Full hull or waterline?
A full-hull kit includes the underwater hull, propellers and rudders, and is usually shown on a stand or pedestal. A waterline kit stops at the waterline and has a flat bottom, so the model can sit on a flat surface or in a painted or resin sea.
Full hull suits larger scales and ships whose underwater shape is interesting, such as submarines and fast attack craft. Waterline suits fleet collections and dioramas. Some kits include both options, either as a separate lower hull or a cut line.
How to choose a scale
- Measure your display space first. Use the table above. A kit you have nowhere to put often never gets finished.
- Match your existing collection. If you already build 1/72 aircraft or 1/35 armor, the same scale lets you combine subjects.
- Think about the detail you enjoy. Larger scales reward detailing; smaller scales reward clean painting and fleet-building.
- Check your eyesight and patience. 1/700 railings and 1/350 rigging both take steady hands, and magnification helps a lot.
- Look at aftermarket support. If you plan to upgrade, 1/350 and 1/700 have the most options.
For a first ship, many experienced builders suggest a destroyer or similar small warship in 1/350 or 1/700 rather than a battleship. Battleships involve a lot of repetitive work.
Tools you need for a plastic ship kit
A basic set covers most kits:
- Sprue cutters (flush-cut nippers) to remove parts cleanly
- Hobby knife with fresh blades
- Sanding sticks or files in a few grits
- Plastic cement, ideally a thin liquid type applied by brush
- Cyanoacrylate (super glue) for metal and photo-etch parts
- Fine tweezers
- Putty for filling seams on long hull halves
- Paints and brushes, plus an airbrush or spray cans for hulls and large areas
- Masking tape for waterlines and boot-topping
- A cutting mat and good lighting, plus magnification for small scales
If you add photo-etch, a bending tool and a sharp blade on a hard surface become very useful. See our guide on using photo-etched parts on plastic ship models.
Aftermarket upgrades
Popular ship kits attract plenty of upgrade products:
- Photo-etched brass for railings, radar, ladders, catapults and other fine parts
- Turned brass gun barrels to replace soft plastic barrels
- Wooden deck sheets cut to fit specific kits
- Resin or 3D-printed details such as boats, light AA guns and corrected parts
- Decals for alternative ships or markings
Aftermarket instructions don’t always follow the kit’s step order, and parts can be hard to find on large frets. Many builders mark up their kit instructions before they start.
What is a finished model ship worth?
This depends heavily on the model. As a rough guide:
- A built plastic kit usually resells for less than the cost of the kit plus materials, unless it’s exceptionally well built. Most buyers pay for craftsmanship, not for the kit.
- Unbuilt kits of out-of-production subjects can hold or increase their value with collectors, especially sealed and complete.
- Professionally built or commissioned models are priced mostly on build hours and are a different market.
- Antique or museum-grade models are valued case by case by specialist dealers and auction houses.
If you’re buying rather than building, see where to find ready-made model ships. And if you’re curious how big ship models can get, we look at the largest model ships.
Guides to specific kits and subjects
- PT boats: PT boat model kits, plus quick answers on PT boat engines, how PT boats were built and which PT boats survive
- German small craft and submarines: building a 1/35 Schnellboot and U-boat model kits
- Battleships and carriers: 1/350 Bismarck kits compared and 1/350 aircraft carrier kits
- Small-scale fleets: 1/700 waterline warship kits and Mountford 1/1250 ships
- Sailing ships in plastic: building the Airfix 1/180 HMS Victory
- Liners: Normandie and Titanic wreck models