What was a Loyal class fleet tender?
The Loyal class were small British naval auxiliary vessels, a type of fleet tender. They’re particularly associated with the Royal Naval Auxiliary Service, a volunteer organisation that used them for training and support work. Several boats of the class carried names beginning with “Loyal”, which gives the class its name.
Like many small service craft, they were plain, purposeful workboats rather than warships: a displacement hull, a compact wheelhouse and superstructure, working deck space and simple fittings. After naval service, some vessels passed into civilian use, so photographs from later in their lives may show changes.
If you want to model a specific boat, research its history first. Fittings and paint schemes varied between vessels and over time.
Why it makes a good working model
A fleet tender is a natural companion to the lifeboats in this cluster, and to other working boat models such as Clyde puffers and trawlers. You’ll often see one at club events and scale regattas alongside rescue craft. It’s a good subject because:
- It’s stable. A beamy displacement hull sits well in the water and handles a breeze calmly.
- It looks right at slow speed. You don’t need a powerful motor, so batteries last a long time.
- The detail is manageable. There’s enough to make the build interesting without the dense fittings of a modern all-weather lifeboat.
- It suits a first working scale model. It’s a good step up from simple kits before tackling something like a Tamar class lifeboat.
The Model Slipway kit
Model Slipway is a UK maker of working scale model kits whose range includes lifeboats and service craft, among them a Loyal class fleet tender. Kit contents and scale can change between production runs, so check the current listing and parts list before you buy.
What to expect in the box
Kits of this type typically include:
- A moulded hull
- Superstructure parts in sheet material or pre-cut components
- A fittings set (often cast or turned parts) for bollards, fairleads, vents and similar items
- Plans and instructions
What you’ll need to add
Budget separately for:
- A motor, propeller shaft, coupling and propeller (unless the kit includes them)
- A rudder linkage and servo (see setting up rudder servos and linkages)
- A speed controller, radio set and batteries
- Ballast
- Paint, primer, glue and filler
- Optional extras such as navigation lights and a sound unit
Building tips
Hull preparation
- Clean any moulded hull with a suitable degreaser and key the surface before priming.
- Mark the waterline and centreline before anything else.
- Fit the propeller shaft and rudder tube early, and seal them well. Leaks around these are the most common problem on any working model. See how to fit and seal a stern tube and prop shaft.
Superstructure and fittings
- Make the wheelhouse or a deck section removable so you can reach the electrics.
- Dry-fit everything and check that the superstructure sits square on the hull before gluing.
- Paint fittings separately where possible and fit them after the main colours are on. For paint types and primers, see model ship finishes.
Running gear and ballast
A tender like this doesn’t need much power. A modest motor at sensible revs, perhaps through a gearbox or belt drive if the maker recommends one, gives a realistic, steady run. Our article on scale model ship propulsion covers motor and prop choices.
Install motor, battery and radio first. Then float the model and add ballast low down until it sits on its waterline and level. Fix the ballast securely.
Painting and markings
Naval auxiliary craft generally carried service colours and markings rather than the bright scheme of a lifeboat. The exact scheme depends on the vessel and the period, so use dated photographs. Masking and decal techniques from our guide to painting accurate RNLI lifeboat livery apply here too: crisp waterlines, careful masking and decals on a gloss surface before a final protective coat.
On the water
Expect a calm, stately model that’s easy to drive. It’s a good boat for practising scale manoeuvring: slow turns, coming alongside a pontoon, reversing into a berth. These skills carry over to faster and more complex models later.
Choosing a specific vessel
Pick a named vessel and a period before you start detailing. Note its pennant or identifying number and look for photographs that show the deck layout clearly. For more on choosing subjects and fitting out working models in general, see our guide to radio controlled lifeboat models.