Start with one boat and one date
The RNLI scheme looks simple: a blue hull and orange upper works. But the details vary between classes, between individual boats, and over a boat’s life as it’s refitted. Fittings, deck colours, markings and even the exact split between colours can change.
The most reliable way to get an accurate model is to choose a specific boat at a specific point in time, then gather clear photographs of it:
- Your own photos from a station visit or open day
- Station websites and social media, which often show their boats in detail
- Lifeboat enthusiast books and publications
- Photographs of the boat out of the water, which show the underwater colours and the hull line clearly
Kit instructions and box art are a useful starting point, but treat them as a guide, not the final word.
The modern all-weather lifeboat scheme
Today’s all-weather lifeboats, including the Shannon, Tamar and Severn, share a broadly similar look:
- Hull: dark navy blue
- Superstructure: bright orange, chosen for visibility
- Decks and walkways: usually a grey non-slip finish
- Fendering: a heavy rubbing strip around the hull, typically dark
- Fittings: a mix of grey, black, white, stainless steel and orange items, such as rails, liferaft canisters, lights and radar
Where the blue stops and the orange starts is one of the most noticeable features. On some classes the line follows the deck edge, while on others it steps around the superstructure. Check photos of your class closely, as getting this line right matters more than almost any other detail.
The colour below the waterline also varies between classes and over time, so check photos of your boat out of the water rather than assuming.
Inshore lifeboats
Inshore boats follow the same colour idea in a different way. The Atlantic 85 and D class have orange inflatable tubes for visibility. The Atlantic’s rigid hull is generally dark blue, while the D class is mostly orange. Consoles, A-frames and engines bring in greys, black and other colours.
Inflatable tubes have a slightly different sheen from a painted hull, so a satin or matt finish on the tubes can help them look like fabric rather than plastic.
Older and historic lifeboats
Older lifeboats used different schemes, and they changed over the decades. Earlier wooden motor lifeboats often had blue hulls with lighter or varnished upper works. The bright orange superstructures familiar today became standard later, as newer classes such as the Arun came into service.
Historic schemes varied enough that general rules can mislead you. If you’re building a historic boat, such as one of the classes in our article on Watson and Arun class lifeboat models, rely on period photographs of that boat. Many ex-lifeboats have been preserved or converted to private use, and their current colours may not match their service colours.
Matching the colours
Choosing paints
The major hobby paint ranges include blues, oranges and greys that modellers use for RNLI subjects. Kit instructions often list suggested colours from a particular range, and Airfix’s 1:72 Shannon starter set comes with its paints included.
Rather than chasing an “official” code, compare candidate paints side by side against good daylight photographs. Paint a test card or a scrap of plastic and look at it at the distance you’ll normally view the model. For a large RC model, some builders buy car or marine paints matched to a sample, which can be practical for covering big areas.
Scale colour effect
Colours look darker and more saturated on a small model than they would on a large object seen from a distance. Many modellers lighten colours slightly on small-scale models, for example on a 1:72 kit, so they don’t look too heavy. On a big 1:12 model, colours can be used closer to full strength. This is a matter of taste, so judge it by eye.
Painting step by step
Preparation and primer
- Clean the model. Wash or wipe off release agent, dust and finger grease.
- Fill and sand. Paint shows up every flaw, especially gloss on large flat panels.
- Prime. A primer gives the paint something to grip and shows up any remaining flaws. See model ship finishes for primer and paint types.
Orange is a weak covering colour. Over a grey or dark base, it can look dull or patchy and need many coats. A white or light primer under the orange areas gives a brighter, more even result with fewer coats.
Order of colours and masking
A common approach is to paint the lighter colour first, then mask it and paint the darker one:
- Prime the whole model.
- Paint the orange areas, overlapping slightly into where the blue will go.
- Once the orange is fully dry, mask along the dividing line with a good quality low-tack masking tape. Thin tape follows curves better.
- Press the edge of the tape down firmly. Some builders seal the edge with a thin coat of the orange, or a clear coat, to stop the blue bleeding under it.
- Paint the blue.
- Remove the tape carefully, pulling it back on itself, before the blue has fully hardened.
The same masking approach works for the boot-topping; see how to mask and paint a straight waterline.
On many models it’s easier to paint the hull and superstructure separately before final assembly. Check the kit instructions and plan this before you glue things together.
Decks and small details
- Paint decks after the main colours, masking off the surrounding areas.
- Paint small fittings off the model where possible, then fit them.
- Pick out details such as lights, window frames, liferaft canisters and grab rails. They add a lot of life to a model.
- Fit glazing and delicate items after painting.
Finish
Real lifeboats are well looked after and fairly glossy, but not mirror-like. A satin clear coat is a common choice for the main colours, with matt for non-slip decks and tubes. A gloss coat before decals helps them sit flat. You can then seal them with your final finish.
On a working model, make sure the finish is suitable for regular contact with water, and let it cure fully before sailing.
Markings and decals
Markings make a lifeboat recognisable. Depending on the class and period, they can include:
- The operational number, such as a number starting with 13 for a Shannon or 16 for a Tamar, often displayed prominently
- The boat’s name
- RNLI lettering on the hull or tubes
- The RNLI flag
- Station details and other small markings
Kit decals are the usual starting point at small scales. If you’re modelling a different boat from the one in the kit, you may need aftermarket or custom-printed decals (see model boat transfers and decals). On large RC models, vinyl lettering is a durable alternative.
Tips for decals:
- Apply them over a gloss surface to avoid silvering
- Use a decal setting solution to help them settle over panel lines and curves
- Seal them once dry, particularly on a model that will go in the water
If you plan to sell models carrying the RNLI name or logo, check whether permission is needed. The RNLI’s name and branding are protected.
Weathering: less is more
Lifeboats are kept in good condition, so heavy weathering usually looks wrong. A light touch works best:
- A little wear on fendering and rubbing strips
- Slight grime around exhausts and on the deck
- Gentle salt staining on lower areas
Look at photos of your chosen boat. A brand-new boat on its naming day looks very different from one near the end of a busy season, and either is a valid choice.
Common mistakes
- Orange over a dark primer, giving a dull, patchy finish
- A wrong colour line between the blue and orange
- Mixing details from different boats or refits
- Heavy weathering on a well-kept lifeboat
- Decals on matt paint, leaving a visible film
For more on choosing a class and building a working model, see our guide to radio controlled lifeboat models.