Classic Power Boat Models: Lesro Arrow, Fairey Huntsman and Bluebird

Why classic British power boats are popular model subjects

For many British modellers, the boats they remember from club ponds in the 1960s and 1970s are the sleek motor cruisers, offshore racers and record breakers of the era. Kits from makers such as Aerokits and Lesro made these boats accessible, and many people now return to them as adults. Some restore the kit they never finished. Others build a fresh one from plans.

Three subjects come up again and again: the Lesro Arrow, the Fairey Huntsman, and Donald Campbell’s Bluebird K7. They make very different projects. The Arrow and the Huntsman are working sports boats with planing hulls, while Bluebird is a jet hydroplane that’s tricky to model as a runner and a classic display subject.

For more on the makers behind these kits, see our guide to wooden model boat kit brands.

The Lesro Arrow

What it is and where to find one

Lesro was a British maker of semi-scale power boat kits during the 1960s and 1970s. Its boats were typically built from balsa and plywood and designed to run on the small electric and glow motors of the time. The Arrow is one of its better-remembered designs. Modellers’ forums mention an Arrow Mk II, which suggests the design went through more than one version.

Lesro kits are no longer in production, so an Arrow today usually means one of three things:

• An unbuilt vintage kit bought at auction, from a club sale or from a resale site
• A part-built or old built model to restore
• A new build from plans, either from a surviving original or a redrawn copy shared among enthusiasts

Restoring or building a vintage Lesro kit

If you’re working from an old kit:

• Check the wood first. Balsa and thin ply that have spent decades in a loft may have warped or dried out. Flat, dry-stored sheets usually survive best.
• Keep the plans safe. Scan or photocopy them before you start cutting, because they’re the hardest part to replace.
• Replace the glue and finish. Modern aliphatic (wood) glues and epoxy are far better than the cements in old kits. Seal the inside of the hull well, because balsa soaks up water quickly. See how to waterproof a wooden model boat hull.
• Update the running gear. Original motors and shafts are usually best kept as souvenirs. A modern brushed or brushless motor, a new stern tube and shaft, and a radio-controlled speed controller make the boat far more reliable.

Fairey Huntsman models

The full-size Fairey boats

Fairey Marine, based at Hamble on the south coast of England, built a well-known range of post-war motor boats. The Huntsman 28 is the best known of these, a sea-going sports cruiser whose deep-V hull was strongly influenced by the offshore racing designs of the period. The Huntsman name was used for more than one length of boat. Kits labelled Huntsman 31 represent a larger version in the family.

Fairey boats are still owned and cherished today, and owners’ clubs keep their history alive, which helps modellers find reference photos.

Huntsman 28 and 31 kits

The Huntsman has been modelled for decades:

• Aerokits produced a classic Huntsman 28 working kit that many British modellers built in their youth. Original kits and plans still circulate secondhand.
• Later UK makers have offered Huntsman kits and fibreglass hulls, including versions sold as the Huntsman 31. Availability changes, so check current catalogues from British working-boat suppliers.
• Plans for Huntsman models have appeared through model boat plan services and magazine archives. If you find one at the wrong size, see how to scale model boat plans up or down.

If you’re searching specifically for a “Fairey Huntsman 31 model boat kit”, compare the scale, hull material (wood or fibreglass) and what’s included in the fittings set. Some kits are complete, while others are a hull and plans that you fit out yourself.

Building a deep-V Huntsman to run well

A deep-V hull rewards careful building:

• Keep it straight. A twisted hull will pull to one side at speed. Build on a flat board and check the keel line often.
• Watch the weight. Scale cabins, glazing and figures look good but add weight high up. Keep heavy items like batteries low and slightly aft of centre, then trim from there.
• Choose a sensible prop. A small, efficient prop and a motor matched to it usually run more smoothly than an oversized setup. Our guide to scale model ship propulsion covers matching the two.
• Finish the hull well. A smooth painted or varnished bottom planes more cleanly than a rough one.

Bluebird speed boat models

Static vs working K7 models

Bluebird K7 was Donald Campbell’s jet-powered hydroplane, which set a string of water speed records between the mid-1950s and mid-1960s before its fatal crash on Coniston Water in January 1967. Its distinctive blue three-pointer shape makes it one of the most popular record-breaker subjects. (For the full story of its jet engines, see our article on what engine powered Bluebird.)

Bluebird models come in two broad types:

• Static display models, in wood, resin or plastic, often at small scales, are cased or mounted on a stand. These let you focus on finish: the blue paint, the Union flag and Bluebird badges, and the cockpit.
• Working models, in wood or fibreglass, are usually powered by a hidden water propeller or an electric ducted fan to suggest jet thrust. These are more demanding to set up.

Hydroplane stability for working models

A three-pointer rides on two forward sponsons and a rear planing point. The full-size K7’s crash is a reminder that these craft can become unstable at speed, and models can do the same, especially in wind or chop. If you’re building a working K7:

• Start slow and build up speed gradually.
• Keep the centre of gravity where the plans show it, not further aft.
• Run on calm water, away from people and other boats.
• Expect to experiment with trim before it runs reliably.

Powering a classic power boat model today

Most builders now fit modern electric systems to vintage designs:

• Brushed motors are simple, cheap and gentle, which suits scale-speed running and older, lighter hulls.
• Brushless motors give much more power for their weight, but they can overstress a vintage balsa hull. Use them with restraint, and pair them with a suitable brushless ESC.
• Batteries: NiMH packs are forgiving, while LiPo packs are lighter and more powerful but need careful charging and storage. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. See LiPo vs NiMH vs lead-acid.
• Waterproofing: Seal the hull interior, use a proper stern tube with grease, and keep electronics high and dry.

Comparing the three as projects

If you’re interested in fast boats more generally, our article on what the best go fast boat is looks at full-size performance boats and how they translate into models. For more on the durability of the fibreglass hulls used on many later kits and full-size boats, see can a fiberglass boat last 100 years?