A good stand holds the model securely, sets it at the right attitude, and frames it like a picture frame does a painting. A bad one wobbles, scratches the hull, or draws the eye away from the ship. Most stands are simple to make, and planning the mounting early in the build makes the job much easier.
This guide covers the three main types (cradles, pedestals and keel blocks), how to choose and finish a baseboard, and how to get the model sitting level.
Choosing a Stand Type
| Type | Looks | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cradle | Traditional, workmanlike | Building and display, models without fixing holes | Model sits in it, often not fixed |
| Pedestals | Elegant, museum style | Finished display models | Needs screws into the keel or hull |
| Keel blocks | Dockyard look | Warships and steamships, plastic hulls | Can be fixed or loose |
Many builders use a simple cradle during construction and switch to pedestals at the end.
Making a Shaped Cradle
A cradle is usually two (or more) shaped supports joined by rails or set into a base.
- Pick stations from the plans. Choose two hull sections (body plan stations) roughly a quarter to a third of the hull length in from each end, where the hull shape is fairly full.
- Transfer the profile. Trace the hull section from the body plan onto card. Or use a contour gauge or a strip of card held against the actual hull at that point.
- Allow for lining. Cut the profile a little oversize so felt or thin cork lining fits without the hull binding.
- Cut the supports from plywood or hardwood, around 6–12 mm thick depending on the model’s size. Sand the curve smooth.
- Join them with two rails, or mount them on a baseboard, keeping them parallel and square.
- Line the curves with felt, leather or cork so the hull finish doesn’t get marked.
Check that the model sits at the correct waterline attitude in the cradle. Plans often show the keel sloping relative to the waterline, as described below.
Mounting on Pedestals
Brass or turned wooden pedestals are the classic display mount. They usually have a slot at the top for the keel and a threaded hole or rod through the middle for a screw.
Where to Place Pedestals
- Two pedestals is the usual number. Very long models sometimes use three.
- Space them far enough apart for the model to feel stable, often roughly a quarter to a third of the hull length in from each end. Adjust for balance and appearance.
- Keep them clear of the curved forefoot and the sternpost area, where the keel is shaped.
- Don’t line them up with the masts if that looks heavy to your eye. Most builders judge final placement by eye.
On broad-hulled models such as 20th-century warships, some builders add pedestals under the bilges as well as the keel. This can look better under a wide hull than a single centreline row.
Fixing the Hull to the Pedestals
On wooden models, the screw usually goes up through the base, through the pedestal and into the keel.
- Plan early: drill the pilot holes into the keel (or keel and false keel) before planking or decking, when you can still see where the screw will go.
- Threaded inserts or a hardwood block glued inside the hull above the keel give the screw something solid to bite into.
- Slot fit: file the pedestal’s keel slot so the keel fits snugly without forcing. A strip of thin card or felt in the slot can take up slack.
- Screw length: measure carefully so the screw can’t break through the deck.
If the hull is already finished, you can still drill from below. Do it slowly with a sharp bit, keep the drill square to the keel, and mark the depth on the bit with tape.
Plastic Hulls
For full-hull plastic kits, a reliable approach is to glue a steel nut (or two or three, depending on hull size) firmly inside the lower hull before closing it up. Drill matching holes through the hull and use bolts from below. If the hull is already closed, you can open holes with a drill bit or by carefully spinning a sharp knife point. A keyhole-shaped slot lets the model drop onto a bolt head and slide into place.
Keel Blocks and Keel Mounts
Keel blocks imitate the blocks a ship sits on in dry dock. They are simple wooden blocks on the base with a notch or flat top for the keel.
- Contrasting woods look smart: for example, walnut blocks on a maple base or maple on walnut. Painted black blocks also work well.
- They suit warships and steamships with flat keels and broad hulls.
- They can be glued in place with the hull resting on them, or the hull can be pinned or bolted through the blocks.
The Baseboard
Choosing the Wood
- Cherry, walnut and maple are long-standing favourites for their colour and fine grain.
- Mahogany gives a classic nautical look.
- Oak suits large models but its coarse grain can look busy under a small one.
- Pine works but looks plainer.
- Poplar’s colour can vary and shift over time, so many builders paint it rather than leaving it natural.
Only a small piece is needed, so buying a better hardwood doesn’t usually add much cost. Ready-made baseboards and brass pedestals are also sold by ship model suppliers.
Size and Edge Profile
Make the baseboard a little longer than the hull. Including overhanging gear, the model may extend past the ends, which is normal for sailing ships with long bowsprits. Make it wide enough to look stable. A routed edge (such as an ogee, cove or chamfer) adds a finished look. Small trim routers with miniature bits make this easy even for beginner woodworkers.
Finishing the Base
Sand through the grits, then finish. Danish oil followed by a few coats of satin varnish is a popular combination. Felt pads or a felt sheet underneath protect furniture. For more on oils and varnishes, see our pillar guide to model ship finishes.
Setting the Model Level
Many ships don’t float with the keel parallel to the water. The keel often slopes so the ship sits deeper aft (called drag). Most display models are set with the waterline level, which may mean one pedestal is taller than the other or the cradle profiles are set at different heights.
Check with a small spirit level or by measuring from the base to the waterline at the bow and stern. If your model has a painted waterline, that’s an easy reference. Our guide to painting a straight waterline explains how to mark it.
Nameplates and Finishing Touches
An engraved brass nameplate with the ship’s name, date and scale finishes the base. Fix it with small pins or double-sided tape centred along the front edge.
Before you settle on a final base size, think about whether the model will go into a case. Our guide to model ship display cases explains how to size a case around a base and stand.