Chris-Craft and Riva Runabout Wooden Model Kits

Why classic runabouts make great models

Classic mahogany runabouts are some of the most attractive boats ever built. Their varnished hulls, planked decks and chrome fittings look superb in miniature, and they’re compact enough to fit on a shelf or run on a local pond.

Two names dominate the subject. Chris-Craft built the American runabouts that defined lake boating from the 1920s to the 1950s. Riva, from Italy, built the glamorous runabouts that became symbols of the Riviera in the 1950s and 1960s. Model kits of both are popular, and many builders end up wanting one of each.

Chris-Craft runabouts to model

Chris-Craft grew out of the boatbuilding business of Chris Smith in Algonac, Michigan. Through the middle decades of the 20th century it was one of the best-known boat builders in the world, before the industry moved over to fibreglass.

The runabouts most often modelled include:

Barrel Backs from the late 1930s and 1940s, named for the rounded, barrel-like shape of the stern. They’re among the most sought-after Chris-Craft designs.
Racing runabouts, with long foredecks and a sporty, low look.
The Cobra, a striking mid-1950s design with a tall tail fin behind the cockpit.
Utility boats and Sportsmen, simpler open boats that make good working models.

Riva runabouts to model

Riva is based at Sarnico on Lake Iseo in northern Italy. Under Carlo Riva, the yard built a series of famous mahogany runabouts. The Aquarama, introduced in the early 1960s, is the best known. It’s a twin-engined boat with a sunpad behind the cockpit and a wraparound windscreen.

Earlier and smaller Riva models, such as the Ariston and Tritone, also appear as kits and plans from time to time, but the Aquarama is by far the most common Riva model subject.

Who makes Chris-Craft and Riva kits?

Ranges change often in this part of the hobby, so check a maker’s current catalogue for what’s available.

Dumas and other American makers

Dumas, the American kit maker, is the name most associated with Chris-Craft models. It has offered several Chris-Craft subjects, including barrel-back and racing runabouts. Its kits are generally designed so they can be built either as display models or as radio-controlled working boats.

Other American and British makers have produced classic runabout kits at various times, including generic “mahogany speedboat” designs, as well as Gar Wood, Hacker-Craft and Century-style boats. These are worth a look if you like the style but aren’t set on a particular make.

Amati and other Italian makers

Amati, the Turin-based maker, has offered a Riva Aquarama kit at a large scale, commonly listed at around 1:10. Other Italian and European makers have also made Aquarama and Riva-style kits.

At around 1:10, an Aquarama model is likely to be roughly 80 cm long. That’s big enough to show off the deck planking and fittings, and big enough to run well on the water.

Checking what you’re buying

Licensed or “style” kit? Riva and Chris-Craft are trademarks, so some kits are officially licensed and others are described as “Riva-style” or “classic runabout” designs. Both can build into fine models, but the shape and details of an unlicensed kit may differ from the real boat.
Static or RC-ready? Some kits are display-only. Others include a prop shaft, rudder and a removable hatch for the electronics.
What’s included? Motors, radio gear and finishing materials are usually extra. Check whether metal fittings and the windscreen are supplied.

How these kits are built

Most wooden runabout kits follow a similar pattern:

Frame. A keel and a set of frames or bulkheads are assembled on a building board to set the hull shape.
Hull skin. The frame is covered with thin plywood or a first layer of planking.
Mahogany planking. Thin strips or veneers of mahogany (or a similar hardwood) go over the top to give the finished look.
Deck. The deck is planked in narrow strips, usually with contrasting light seams between them, just like the real boats. See using wooden decks on model ships.
Fittings. The windscreen, cleats, flag staffs, steering wheel, seats and other details go on last.

Compared with a sailing ship kit, there’s no rigging and far fewer small parts. The work goes into the woodwork and, above all, the finish.

Getting the varnished mahogany look

The finish makes or breaks a runabout model. A Chris-Craft or Riva with a deep, glassy varnish looks wonderful. One with brush marks, dust or uneven colour looks wrong straight away. Builders commonly recommend:

Fair the hull carefully before finishing. Varnish highlights every bump and gap. Sand smooth and check the hull under a raking light.
Test stains on scrap first. Real runabouts are often a rich reddish-brown. Test your stain on offcuts of the same wood, because mahogany strips can absorb stain unevenly.
Fill the grain. Mahogany has open grain. A grain filler or sanding sealer, sanded back between coats, gives a smoother base for the varnish.
Make the deck seams neat. Seams can be made with thin strips of light wood, a filler, or a fine line drawn between planks. Whatever you use, keep the lines consistent.
Build the varnish in thin coats. Several thin coats, rubbed down lightly between each, give a better result than a few thick ones. Work in a dust-free space and give each coat time to cure. Our guide to model ship finishes compares stains and varnishes.
Mask the painted areas. Many runabouts have painted bottoms below the waterline or a boot stripe. Mask cleanly before painting (see how to mask and paint a straight waterline).

The chrome-look fittings are the final touch. Kits may supply plated or cast metal parts, or brass parts that you polish or paint. Polished fittings against a dark varnished hull give these models much of their appeal.

Static display or radio control?

Runabouts are among the most popular subjects for working models because they’re compact, stable and look great on the water.

For a working model:

Plan the electronics early. Fit the prop shaft, rudder and motor mount before the deck goes on, and make sure you can reach the electronics through a removable hatch.
Waterproof the inside. Seal the inside of the hull before planking the deck, and use a waterproof varnish on the outside. See how to waterproof a wooden model boat hull.
Pick a sensible motor. Most builders use an electric motor with a speed controller. Our guide to classic power boat models covers modern brushless and LiPo setups for classic hulls, which apply here too.
Mind the weight and trim. Add ballast if needed so the model sits at the right waterline and runs level.
Twin screws for the Aquarama. The real boat has two engines, so many builders fit two motors and propellers. It looks right and helps the model handle.

If you’re building purely for display, you can skip all of that and concentrate on the finish. A static model is also easier to keep in perfect condition.

How hard are runabout kits?

Runabout kits are generally rated beginner to intermediate. There’s no rigging, the hull is small and the part count is modest. For someone more interested in power boats than sailing ships, a runabout can be a good first wooden kit.

The catch is the finish. The construction is approachable, but getting a show-quality varnish takes patience and practice. Plan for the finishing stage to take as long as the building.

Choosing your runabout kit

Want an American classic? Look at Dumas’s Chris-Craft runabouts, which can be built for display or radio control.
Want the most glamorous subject? A Riva Aquarama kit from Amati or another Italian maker, ideally a twin-motor working model.
Not set on a particular make? Generic classic runabout kits can be cheaper and are a good way to practise the varnish finish.
More interested in British classics? See our guide to classic power boat models, which covers the Lesro Arrow, Fairey Huntsman and Bluebird.

For more on the makers mentioned here, see our guide to wooden model boat kit brands.