U-Boat Model Kits: Revell Type IX and Ark 1/48 Type VIIC

Type VIIC vs Type IX: telling the boats apart

Germany’s two main WWII ocean-going U-boat families make the most popular submarine kits:

• Type VII (most often the VIIC): the workhorse of the Atlantic campaign, built in larger numbers than any other type. A compact boat, about 67 m long.
• Type IX (often the IXC): a larger, longer-range boat for distant operations, about 76–77 m long. It is noticeably beamier, with a broader deck casing. U-505, a Type IXC captured by the US Navy in 1944, is preserved at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago and is an excellent reference.

Within both types, conning tower (Turm) layouts and anti-aircraft fits changed a great deal during the war. This is one of the main things to check against references for the boat you want to build.

How big are these kits?

Large-scale U-boats are long and narrow, so they need a long shelf but not much depth.

Revell’s 1/72 Type IX: what to expect

Revell has released 1/72 Type IX boats alongside its well-known 1/72 Type VIIC kits. They’re generally regarded as solid, well-detailed kits for the price, and they’re popular with both static and RC builders. As a large but simple shape, a 1/72 U-boat is a reasonable step up for someone who has built a few kits and wants a big model without a battleship’s parts count.

Build notes

• Long hull halves: The main challenge is joining two very long hull halves cleanly. Dry-fit, then glue in sections with internal bracing or clamps so the seam doesn’t wander.
• Seam cleanup: Fill and sand the keel seam carefully. On a smooth submarine hull, any step or gap shows clearly under paint.
• Deck casing: The upper deck on these boats was wooden slats on the real thing. Paint it as weathered wood or a grey-washed finish, depending on your references.
• Small parts last: Railings, the net cutter (if fitted), jumping wires and AA guns are easy to knock off, so fit them near the end.
• Upgrades: Aftermarket photo-etch, turned barrels and resin conning tower variants are available for popular U-boat kits. See our photo-etch guide for technique.

Picking a boat and conning tower fit

Revell’s boxings usually represent particular boats or periods. If you want a different boat, check whether its conning tower and AA platform match the kit parts. Resin or printed conversion parts exist for some variants. Photos dated to a specific patrol are the best way to settle questions about camouflage and markings.

Ark Models 1/48 Type VIIC: an RC submarine kit

Ark Models’ 1/48 Type VIIC is a very different product. It’s designed as a working radio-control submarine, and a retailer listing describes it as:

• ABS plastic injection parts, metal parts and large brass photo-etched parts
• A separate watertight cylinder (WTC) system, offered as part of a combined package, with a pump-tank ballast system
• Servos, an ESC (electronic speed controller) and a BCU (ballast control unit) included with the WTC
• A finished length of roughly 1.4 m
• Illustrated step-by-step instructions, with the listing warning that English isn’t guaranteed

What’s in the box

You get the hull and detail parts plus, with the WTC package, the core of a diving system: a sealed cylinder holding the electronics and ballast pump. Things you’ll usually still need to supply include a radio transmitter and receiver, batteries, paint and finishing materials. Check the exact listing, because packages vary.

Who it suits

• RC submarine enthusiasts who want a large, detailed scale boat that can actually dive
• Patient builders comfortable with waterproofing, trimming ballast and troubleshooting electronics
• Static builders with lots of space, although at about 1.4 m long and with a working-sub design, it’s a lot of model just to display

If you only want a static 1/48 VIIC, look at static kits too. Trumpeter has offered a large 1/48 Type VIIC aimed at shelf builders.

Other U-boat kit options

• 1/144: A good middle ground. Revell has released Type VIIC kits in this scale that fit on a normal shelf.
• 1/350: Several makers produce U-boats that pair with 1/350 surface ships in a convoy scene.
• 1/700: Tiny U-boats often appear in waterline sets or as extras in larger kits, handy for dioramas. See our 1/700 waterline kit guide.

For how these scales compare more broadly, see our plastic ship kit scale guide.

Painting and weathering U-boats

• Base colors: Most U-boats were painted in shades of grey, often with a different shade or color below the waterline, but schemes varied by boat, flotilla and date.
• Weathering: Rust streaks, salt staining and faded paint are a big part of the U-boat look. Restraint pays off. Build up streaks gradually with thin washes and oils rather than heavy applications.
• Markings: Many boats carried unofficial emblems on the conning tower. Aftermarket decals cover popular ones.

If you’d like to try another German subject, see our guide to building a 1/35 Schnellboot.